Edits still being made...

OK, at one point I thought I was done with additions to this blog, but I keep adding pictures and doing edits (see the Guachala entry, and Faces of El Inca, and the Dec. 18 update). As time goes on, I'm learning that my Ecuador Adventure is only really beginning...

I brought home from the prison some homemade greeting cards, created and made by the women in Joan's Bible study group at El Inca. They are now being sold through our church, and they seem to be VERY popular! Actually, they are selling so quickly that I've already had to order some more from Joan!

Also, I'd like to set up a new website based on the women's card business and continuing aid to the women and children at El Inca, so I'll be adding notes on that as it comes to fruition. Please note: I'm no webmaster, so any input or help from others is welcomed!

Adding photos, doing edits...making new plans?

Anyone who's checked back more than once might note that new pictures and notes have being added throughout the blog since I've been home from my trip. I've also edited some of the posts, removing the more personal entries directed specifically toward my family, and making edits to other posts to allow for a more "journalistic" writing style.

To those who've expressed their interest and their kind thoughts on the content -- THANKS! I'm so glad you've enjoyed! And you may be interested to know something else, too...

I'm hoping to go to Ecuador again next year! Actually, my hope is to somehow make regular mission trips to the El Inca women's prison, to continue bringing supplies, Bibles, and a caring word or two for the women and children there. I'm not quite sure how to go about establishing a support base for such a venture, but I hope to draw others into this with me, to join in the cause either from behind the scenes with financial support, or as part of the process to help gather donations, or to even accompany me in travel! (The more travelers, the more luggage that can be stuffed full of donations!) Maybe the hope will never come to fruition -- maybe it'll develop into something bigger than all of us! But I put it prayerfully into God's hands and simply ask him to use me in whatever capacity he chooses.

DECEMBER EDIT UPDATE:
On Dec. 18, I received this request from Joan...
"Dear Prayer Warriors, I am writing to ask for prayer for Annie from South Africa. She received word that her youngest child was hit by a car and killed. Annies son was just 4 years old. He ran out on the street from the front yard and was hit and killed. It actually happened last Sunday and no one wanted to tell her... when she called home today, she found out. What a shock! As I arrived at the prison I found that Mae, from the Philippines, just found out that her brother passed away after finding last month that he had cancer. She was frantic also! Her 11 year old son lives with him."

Annie is shown in the picture to the left, which was emailed to me by Joan. (Pictured with Annie is a girl named Apple, who is from Thailand.)

The picture to the right is of Mae, also emailed to me by Joan.

Please remember both Annie and Mae in your prayers.

Hey, it's good to be back home again...

It was a long road home... but I made it! Got into the Houghton Co. Airport last night, so glad to see Mark waiting there for me! I had sent an entry to my blog from an airport internet connection (was it Miami? Minneapolis? hard to say...all a blur!), but I don't see it showing up anywhere here. Hmmm.

When someone in Ecuador suggested that I might want to check my flight connection in Miami before leaving, I didn't even understand what their concern was. I hadn't heard any news broadcasts since I left the States, and didn't even know about the hurricane devastation in Florida! So I went online to Northwest Airlines, and discovered that my flight was CANCELLED due to airport conditions! I then checked my flight from Ecuador to Miami (Lacsa Airlines/Taca Group), and they advised me that my reservation was confirmed and they were indeed flying into Miami that day -- though they hadn't been the day before! OK, nothing to do but assume flights were resuming to some degree in Miami, and deal with it when I got there, since I couldn't call Northwest from Ecuador.

I arrived in Miami late in the evening of the 27th, with my (cancelled) flight having been scheduled to go out at 7:35 the next morning. But when I arrived at MIA, all the Northwest ticket counters were closed and dark. I was so tired and exhausted, and had no other choice but to find a place where others were apparently in the same predicament (and maybe already stranded there for days, for all I knew!), and try to catch some shut-eye. I was thankful for the wool poncho I'd bought in Otavalo, as the airport got quite chilly that night. So with my sweatshirt balled up for a pillow, and my poncho pulled out of my suitcase and used for a blanket, I snuggled on the barely carpeted cement floor with my luggage and had about 6 hours of fitful sleep. We were all like refugees in a strange land, bonded by our situation, all speaking different languages! The elderly couple sleeping in shifts next to me, though somewhat fluent in English, had French accents (I think). I also heard Spanish, Nigerian, and what have you. I just kept close to my bags and tried to make the best of the situation -- what good would it do to whine and complain anyway?

When the Northwest ticket counters opened between 6 and 7, I ended up getting a flight out at 2:15 p.m. on the 28th, with a plane change in Detroit (and barely enough time to make the connection), and another change in Minneapolis (with several hours between flights). I finally rolled into the Houghton County Airport about 12:20 a.m.

I learned, too, that there's another hurricane -- this time targetting Central America (Nicaragua and Costa Rica). What's going on here? I leave Miami for S. America, and as soon as I pass through they get hit with Hurricane Wilma. On my way home, I switch planes in Costa Rica, apparently just missing the next hurricane (Betta?) coming through there! Guess my trip could have been even more "adventuresome," had travel been a day or two later at either end of my journey! Thankfully, I had all the adventure I could stand!

It's great to be back home, and so wonderful to be with my U.S. family again! Thanks so much to all of you who've added your comments along my journey's way -- SO much appreciated!

Photos and more to follow, after I get settled back in here a little bit... Love to all!

The Faces of El Inca...

These are some of my images of the women and children waiting as the children's clothing that I brought with me was being distributed. There were about 160 pieces of clothing, and as the supply dwindled, the women became more frantic and pushy to get to the front of the crowd to get a piece of clothing for their own child. But there are many more children in the prison than there was clothing to disperse, so many women walked away empty-handed -- some disheartened, some downright angry, and others just quietly accepting one more disappointment in a life that has never seemed to offer them any encouragement.




When I showed Joan the blanket that one of our church women crocheted (thanks, Jackie!) for some lucky baby at the prison, and the stuffed animals that Katya sent with me from her own treasured collection, Joan grabbed the beautiful blanket and one of the animals and said, "I know just who these are for!" And this is a picture of that recipient!

El Inca Prison Reflections...

After these past two days, with my two visits to the prison, I'm feeling pretty emotionally drained. I will make this a quick post anyway... just wanted to let you all know that I'll be heading out tomorrow, as scheduled, so this will be my last post from Ecuador.

What an experience the prison visits have been. I was able to bring both my still camera and my video camera into El Inca (thanks to Joan Ewan and the strings she was able to pull -- no easy feat!!!), so I have some photos and footage to share with those interested. I was pretty overwhelmed by the whole thing, and moved to tears many times during both visits. Any pre-conceived notions one might have can never prepare you for the actually experience "on the inside." And yet, despite the conditions, the women I got to know who are involved in Joan's weekly Bible Study have such joy in their hearts and such thankfulness for any little show of caring or kindness. They all so warmly thanked me for coming, and wanted me to be sure to express their thanks for the gifts brought them from the money donated by my church family, and I felt only that I should be the one thanking them -- It has blessed me so deeply to be given the opportunity to be welcomed into their world!

These two photos show the young women in Joan's Bible Study group, working on the homemade cards that they have developed into a small business within the prison. Individual input of time is tracked, and profits from selling cards to folks on the outside (through Joan) are shared accordingly. With these meager earnings, the women can purchase food and other items at the prison store, instead of being tempted to submit to blackmail or bribes to obtain food and basic necessities. They can also buy things like phone cards to keep in touch with family in their home countries.

Did you know...? Inmates at El Inca are provided only ONE meal per day. And women who have children must share that one meal with their children! That's right -- No individual meals are provided to the children! It's pretty obvious how this could place so many of the women in vulnerable positions, especially when many come into the prison system with an already-low self-esteem.

The photo to the right was one I shot from the interior courtyard, of the laundry hanging from outside the inmates' windows. Each of these "double-wide" windows is actually two windows looking out from two different cells, each cell housing at least 2 or 3 women. The prison cells are tiny cubicles that some have managed to build bunk bed systems in to help make the best use of the very limited space. It really makes you appreciate what you may have once considered cramped quarters at home!

Back in Quito...

Not feeling so hot today... don't know if it's something I ate or drank (or shouldn't have!), or just that the emotional roller coaster ride is wearing me down. I really think it's the former, as I'm having a bit of stomach cramping and such, and really feel like crap!

I was up at the crack of dawn this a.m., had a taxi pick me up at the Hacienda Guachala in Cayambe, and bring me to the bus station. He would have taken me all the way to Quito (about 1-1/2 hour ride) for $40, and I was tempted. But my sensible side reminded me that I was already low on funds -- no taking the easy way out today. Anyway, the taxi ride into town was $5, then the bus ride (about 2 hrs, with all the stop-and-go for passengers getting on and off) was only $1.25. From the bus station, I enlisted the help of a policeman to help me get another taxi (this time to the Alliance Academy). The taxi drivers don't know of the Alliance Academy, but it's within spitting distance from the Hospital Vozandes, which everyone seems to know. So I just asked him to take me there, and when we arrived and he was ready to stop, I motioned him to keep going to the next building. That taxi ride was another $2. So instead of $40, I spent only $8.25 to get here! I'm pretty proud of myself, and I have more to add to my tales of adventure!

The bus ride was actually pretty comfortable -- and interesting! It's a newer bus, not some rickety old thing, and the seats are comfy. They put my bags underneath, just like going Greyhound, but I kept my backpack with me at all times(containing cameras, passport, contact info, etc.), and all my cash in my front pockets, as usual.

Hey Mom and Dana, I have to tell you, I finally saw yesterday an old man and a burro along the road -- my first and only sighting! But I saw my share of old women driving sheep herds along roads, or 3-6 cows across roads in the villages (sometimes the traffic stops, mostly it doesn't, and the cows seem to know to make mad dashes between cars! Every piece if grassy knoll or hillside is utilized by the animal owners. You will note that all the cows have horns, and along any given road you might see cows staked out with the rope tied to their horns... or goats, or pigs! Nearby will be sitting the old woman tending them, who will move them on to another spot when the grass it eaten to the ground. That's why you'll see herds of animals (including pigs) being driving through towns -- the owners have only so much grazing land, and they move the animals to where ever the grass is.

I think I've mentioned all the dogs running loose everywhere... so sad. Most are obviously fending for themselves, dirty and scared if you try to talk to them or pet them (I managed to give a comforting scratch around the ruff to one or two, but mostly they're very wary). I did notice, though, that they are VERY street-wise. In the city of Otavalo, especially, it's every man (and dog!) for himself. Drivers don't stop at stop signs or use signals, and pedestrians cross when and where they dare. I was very concerned about the strays getting hit when I first arrived, but I began to notice that they watch the people. When there's someone crossing in the direction they want to go, they fall into place beside them till they get to the other side, then go their own way. Clever, eh? I guess it's all part of learning to survive, and the not-so-clever ones don't make it past puppyhood.

Ecuador is trying to get people to slow down and drive more carefully. Whenever someone is hit by a car and killed, they now paint a big blue heart on the road where they died, about 4 feet in diameter. It's supposed to remind drivers what happens when they're not more cautious. Don't know if it helps at all, because I can't imagine the drivers being even WORSE than they are now! I noticed that all the hearts had little curved lines coming from the side of them, looking like radio waves or something. I asked the translater what they were, and he told me that it signifies the life going out of the person killed. Sobering.

I made it to Hacienda Guachala!

...And what a ride it was! I took a taxi (too much luggage to try to manage a bus ride), which had to take ¨the back roads¨ due to the Panamerican Highway being closed between Otavalo and Cayambe, for some unknown reason that didn't seem to concern anyone (my taxi driver just shrugged, said it happened sometimes). Whew! Words just can not describe that ride! Let me just say that cobblestone roads leave much to be desired at 70 km/hr! And these aren't the dainty little cobblestones you see in America, but ROCKS!!! I don't know how any of the cars stay in one piece -- you would think all the parts would vibrate off in no time!

Around one turn, when we got back onto the highway, a bus was coming at breakneck speed -- normal around here. I swear it was almost on two wheels -- tipping precariously with the centrifugal force! And double yellow lines mean nothing here, either -- anywhere in Ecuador, it seems. Whether it is a broken line (for passing) or a double yellow, it is treated only as a guide for an imaginary lane in the middle of the road! Seriously! Around corners, with oncoming traffic, going up and down grades like you've never seen in the States (we're talking Andes Mountains, folks!), cars and busses and trucks just give a warning toot on the horn when they are preparing to pass, and away they go! More often than not, there are three lanes of traffic on the supposedly 2-lane roads. It's just the way everyone drives here! Now I understand why there are all the warnings about not driving or taking the bus at night. That's when most of the accidents happen on the highways, because, as if the passing situation isn't enough, a lot of vehicles reportedly don't have working lights, either!!!

Internet use was just $1/hour in the internet cafe I frequented in Otavalo. But it´s a whopping $1 per half-hour here.

It is SO quiet here, after being in the city for over 4 days. It's wonderful to hear the birds singing again. Oops! Include the sound of thunder in that report, too! The folks here say that it has been rumbling all day, but they've seen no rain yet. I 'm scheduled for a horseback ride at about 3:00 or so, unless it starts raining. It has been years since I've really ridden, so I hope I don't fall off or anything embarassing like that!

[Later edit... I did go for that horseback ride, and it was great to be back in the saddle again! Here's the horse I rode, though... Poor skinny thing, but seemed eager to trot out when I let him, and a nice smooth gait! It all came back to me, as I relaxed in the saddle and enjoyed the scenery, videotaping my surroundings from his back.]

The photo on the right shows the hallway outside my room. At the far end is where you enter (and check in), and my room is the door on the right-hand side of the hallway. On display are lots of old, old saddles and horse bits and stirrups and such (which I took pictures of, too).

The next two photos (to the left) show my room at the hacienda. It is a "double" room, but I had checked out pictures of the rooms online ahead of time and like this one best. I asked them if I could book this room at the single rate if I promised not to disturb the second bed, and they graciously confirmed my reservation for this room! The doors in my room, shown here, look out onto the hallway shown in the first picture. At the other end of the room, there is a door that looks out onto a greenhouse and solar-heated pool.

This next photo shows the adobe fireplace that is in my room, supplied with eucalyptus leaves and branches (instead of cedar kindling), and eucalyptus wood for maintaining a nice, warm fire. They offered to start it for me, but of course I told them that wouldn't be necessary (I've started fires in wood stoves and furnaces a time or two in my life!!!). It was so wonderful, at day's end, to have a crackling fire in my room, and doze off while watching the flames from under the wool blankets. I slept like a baby that night -- no city noises to break my peaceful slumber!

Note the pots on top of the fireplace. They are REAL treasures -- Mayan pots excavated from here at the Hacienda Guachala, which was built on the site of an ancient Inca temple! It's amazing the artifacts that are on display in various places -- just to touch them gives you a sense of reverence for the history behind them! Of course, they are all marked with identifying numbers on the bottoms, to prevent being stolen and smuggled out of the country. But I was just in awe of the pieces that were in my room alone!

This photo (to the right) shows just a small part ot the number of pieces also excavated here, on display in the old church built on the property in 1938 (to replace the older church that was desecrated by some irreverent party animals of the day). This church now serves as a museum, and the pieces are simply displayed on these open shelves. The doors are always open -- literally "open," and not closed to the elements! Of course, in Ecuador, the weather is basically the same all year long (no seasons as we know them, and most always about 65-70 during the day and just a bit cool at night). So it's rare to find any abodes with anything resembling weather-tight doors or windows. No wonder I loved it here so much!!!

My description of the Hacienda Guachala just wouldn't be complete without mentioning the animals kept there, including the llamas! There were also horses, geese, ducks and chickens. All in all, it was quite a peaceful, relaxing place to visit, and I hope to return one day. This was the most expensive place I stayed at -- a whopping $36.60 per night (including taxes)! Meals aren't included, but are reasonably priced, too.

For supper, I ate alone in the dining room, being the only guest at the hacienda that night. But I was certainly not neglected. The host personally provided me menus, and the waitress took and prepared my order, while another hired helper (maintenance man?) busily took to task making my dinner experience perfectly warm and cozy by building a roaring fire in the adobe fireplace at the end of my table. I ordered and enjoyed a lovely cheesy potato soup, a delightfully fresh salad (with cucumbers, tomatoes and avocados), and a bottle of Ecuadorian beer. With me meal I received a basket of fresh-baked bread. Once I was served, everyone disappeared as if they'd never been there, and I ate the most peaceful dinner I'd had in ages, writing in my journal by the light of a candle and the glow of the fireplace.

Standing at the Middle of the Earth

On the way to Hacienda Guachala, the taxi driver pulled over here and announced to me that we were at the middle of the world. I had read about it while planning my trip to Ecuador, and thought it interesting enough, but didn't plan to make visiting it a priority.But I really appreciated the driver stopping for me, and had fun asking him to take a picture of me straddling the equator! Here I am with one foot in the Southern Hemisphere, and one foot in the Northern Hemisphere!

I am now an official "TOURIST!"

Last hike around the city...

Hola! I just hiked almost from one end of Otavalo to the other, including a short stretch along the Panamerican Highway... Should have done that sooner, as I'm really getting to know my way around this town, and finding lots of interesting places I'd like to check out if I had more time! But instead I need to start thinking about heading back to my hostal and getting a taxi to Cayambe.

One last thing... Just have to mention the grossest thing I saw while here in Otavalo. No, not roasted cuy (guinea pig, a delicacy here). I came walking up behind one woman yesterday who was carrying a white 5-gal. bucket, and I glanced into it as I passed her. I had to do a double-take and curb my repulsion! The bucket was more than half-full of some kind of live beetle -- like a 1-1/2-inch long, big, fat June bug or something -- all of them wiggling and writhing in the bucket! I don't even want to think about what their purpose in life might be for that woman!

[Later Note: I've since stumbled across information that may explain this bucket of beetles! There is a beetle called the Cochineal, that some of the local weavers use as a raw material for dying their wool yarns. I'm thinking this may be what these beetles were destined for. 02-18-06]

OK, that's it for entries from this town... Onward to Cayambe, to the Hacienda Guachala! Adios!

Not quite my last post from Otavalo...

I'm feeling better today. Still a bit sad, though ... finding myself rushing to my balcony everytime I hear a mother and child's voice on the street below -- which is too often! I will sure miss my new Ecuadorian family.

I was going to try to hike to Cascada de Peguche this morning, and was even up, showered and dressed by 6:30. But I just couldn't work up the enthusiasm. It's very chilly out, but that's not a good excuse (I've got warm clothes). I guess I'm just feeling sort of melancholy about leaving. A whole group of children are walking by the door now, on their way to school, and I just had to stop and watch them... all those long braids on the little boys -- just like Dany. The memories keep tugging at my heartstrings.

I take my pictures out of my wallet and look at all my loved ones back home, and it always makes me smile. No tears, though, as I know I'll be seeing them all again soon.

On another note, it sure is easy to pick up Spanish when you're immersed in it. I actually found myself dreaming in Spanish ... I think it was just last night? Wierd, huh? I'm finding it easier to communicate when I pop in and out of shops for food, sometimes conversing (just the basics, mind you!) well enough that they don't realize I'm not getting half of what they're saying, but catching enough of their side of the conversation to give the correct responses. It's a mini-high to leave the shop without feeling like a total idiot!

The photo to the right shows last night's purchases before returning to my room. I stopped in at a small bakery-type shop facing the park , a half-block from my hostal, and bought these three small breads, large cookie, and 12-oz. package of cheese (a salty, mild cheese, with a consistency somewhere between mozarella and tofu!) ... all for under $2.00. I just had to take a picture of them when I got back to my room -- the prices here are SO easy to live with!

You know, you can rent a place for about $90 a month down here... I'm thinking way cool summer vacation!

As I mentioned previously, I'm on my way to Cayambe today. The taxi driver will be picking me up at the Dona Esther at about noon.

Last night in Otavalo...

I just spent the last hour wandering the streets of Otavalo... no more shopping, as all my shopping funds are spent! But my bag's packed back at my room with all my "treasures" and I'll be checking out of the Hostal Dona Esther by noon tomorrow. On to Cayambe and a night at the Hacienda Guachala... and perhaps some horseback riding if I'm in the mood.

I'd hoped to walk to Peguche today, via the railroad tracks (it's the most direct and popular hiking route), but the weather today's been a bit cool. Also, it's been raining off-and-on all day, so I decided not to do it. I'm still hoping to go, but if I do it would have to be bright and early tomorrow morning, to give myself the time I'd like to do some intense photography.

Today, instead of going to Peguche, I spent several hours hitting the markets again! :) I did get some pictures and video from the 2nd story terrace of an eatery called Tabasco's, which overlooks Poncho Plaza, while enjoying my lunch. I had a very large bean burrito (complete with lettuce, tomatoes, onions... and of course Tabasco sauce!), and a cup of good, strong, thick coffee (with slightly curdled cream) for only $3. It was delicious.

With being so exhausted all the time from my whirlwind/emotional days, I really haven't done much actual photography before today -- only "snapshots" of my time with Dany, etc. If I had someone with me, I might be doing more. But I'm not real comfortable about walking about the town alone while flashing my expensive camera around. I may as well wear a sign that says, "ROB ME!" Maybe I'm not being fair about that, but I've heard enough warnings from advance research on the internet about such things. I probably wouldn't have any trouble, but why open myself up to the possibility? (Did I write about this already, or was it something I wrote in my personal journal? If I'm repeating myself, please forgive me!)

Some of you may be glad to hear I gave up the planned trip to Riobamba to ride the train to la Nariz del Diable (Devil's Nose). It seemed like just too risky a schedule, as far as getting back safely to Quito before dark, to catch my plane the next morning. So I'll instead be staying in Quito for 2 nights after Cayambe. On Tue., I'll be visiting the prison with Joan to bring the children's donations, and on Wed., I'll go with her again for the women's Bible Study.

Gotta run for now. Lots of love to all from Ecuador!

Feeling better today...

Did not feel much like doing much of anything last night, as my heart was breaking. I still get tears in my eyes just thinking about it now. Dany and his family have become my extended family here in Ecuador, and I am left with an ache in my chest that will not go away. The tearful good-byes yesterday were very hard on all of us, and as Dany's mother started crying, I took her hand and started crying with her. Dany was crying, his baby sister was looking as if she was ready to burst into tears (probably more out of confusion about why everyone else was crying so!), and Dany's father was trying to hold it all together. We had Wendy (owner/employee?), who is American, available to translate for us, thank goodness, and we exchanged many good wishes, pleas to continue writing, promises that I would return to Ecuador again, and so on. I gave Dany my Chebeague Island ball cap, and he took it as if it were a treasure. Dany's mother gave me more handwoven items for my family, 4 hats! As she pulled each from her bag, she named who they were for. The warmth and generosity of Dany's family humbled me, and I vowed in my heart never to forget them and the lessons they taught me about giving from the heart.

I must change the subject here, as I'm crying and sniffling at the internet cafe, dabbing my eyes and blowing my nose!

On a lighter note, I'm really in my element at the Otavalo markets! I'd read plenty before coming here, about not paying asking price for ANYthing, and that the vendors expect you to haggle. If you don't, you're pegged right away as a foolish American! Well, the only thing I paid asking price for was a hundred or so Peruvian beads I bought in one store, at such a ridiculously low price that I was too much in shock to haggle. But I may go back and get some more and be ready for a better bargain! Those beads are the same I paid an arm and a leg for on ebay (hear me thinking "resale" here?). Among all the other little treasures I picked up (some, I admit, as impulse buys that will probably end up on ebay), I'd been especially coveting a beautiful poncho that I was seeing at many different stands. It's a traditional style, off-white (natural), with darker stripes and a hood. So I started checking prices at all the different stands to see what the going rate was, and how low they would come. Most, when asked, "Quanto?" answered anywhere from $12 to $20. OK, I had a good idea. When I said, "Gracias, no!" and started walking away, they all of course jumped forward and said (in Spanish), "You say, how much?" Sometimes I'd come back with another number just to see, and other times I'd indicate maybe "manana." Anyway, I waited till almost the end of the day yesterday, found a vendor that was packing up and pointed to the poncho, "Quanto?" He answered $16. "No, no, gracious!" (turning to walk away). "Senora, senora! Quanto usted?" Thoughfully, I offered him $10. He pretended to not be willing to go that low, but suggested $12. I just shook my head and turned to leave, "No, gracias" He stopped me again and say he'd take $10. I smiled, and we had a bargain! I gave him $10 and walked away with my coveted poncho!

I could grow to LOVE this place!!!

Today I might walk to the Cascada de Peguche (Peguche Falls), where I went with Dany's family the other day. It's such a beautiful place, and I'd like to spend more time there, photographing and videotaping, and just soothing my broken heart! It's probably about a 40-minute walk or so, but this is my last day in the area. No sense moping in my room.

This is the first morning that I didn't wake up with a headache, as I've been doing since arriving in Ecuador. I've been making aspirin a regular part of my diet -- that and plenty of fluids -- to combat the effects of going to such a high altitude. I must finally be acclimating. Nothing I can do for the puffy eyes, though a hot shower this morning helped me feel more "alive!"

Tonight is my last night in Otavalo, then I will take a taxi to Cayambe in the morning, to stay at the Hacienda Guachala. It is secluded and quiet, up on an extinct volcano, and will be a restful place to sort of decompress after this emotion-packed visit to Otavalo. Yet, I'm a bit sad to be leaving -- enjoying walking the streets and exploring, though wishing I had someone along to share it with.

Will close for now, and write again either tonight or tomorrow morning.

Much love to all! XOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOXOX

Tearful good-bye to Dany...

Just a few quick lines here... not feeling very cheery or in the mood to write. But those following my whereabouts, note that I've cancelled my reservations at LaLuna Hostal and will be staying on at the Hostal Dona Ester for the next two days, before going on to Cayambe.

I had another wonderful visit with Dany's family, but had to say final good-byes to them after today (because at the time I thought I'd be leaving Otavalo and going to LaLuna up on the mountain). After the big emotional drain, though, I just decided to cancel my reservations at LaLuna and stay put... no energy left to make any big moves and do any readjustments to new surroundings.

I'll be OK. But I'll write more tomorrow... love to all!

Translator to the rescue!

I had coffee this morning downstairs of my hotel -- VERY strong, but VERY, VERY good. Had some yesterday morning, so knew I had to have more this a.m. Also had a glass of passion fruit juice - thick and yummy. No breakfast, because I still have pizza left from last night's dinner. The owner questioned my not wanting even some bread, and I had to remind her "Dengo mucho pizza!" She had wrapped it to go for me last night, so she smiled and understood. After paying for my coffee and juice, and also my room for 2 days (leaving later on, to go on to the Hostal LaLuna), I wanted to ask her a favor. But her English is almost as limited as my Spanish. Just as I was struggling with the first words, a girl came to check in for a room and witnessed my dilemma, and asked enthusiastically, "Can I help?" We were both very relieved to have a translator!

I'm still feeling very uncomfortable about the continued contact with Dany's family, without a rep from Compassion or the project, and I am just so afraid that they will ask for my address and/or phone number. I plan to honor the promises I made to Compassion, but I also don't want to hurt Dany's family or make them think I don't actually want to establish a more direct contact. Anyway, I asked the girl to tell the owner/receptionist that I would appreciate her explaining the situation to Dany's family when they come to see me again this morning, and tell them to please not ask for any contact information from me (address, phone number, etc.), because it's against the rules of Compassion. I hope she will be sensitive to the situation and not make it sound as if I'm personally trying to discourage direct contact. I would actually LOVE to have direct contact, but a promise is a promise, and I understand and respect why Compassion must have such rules (for the protection of both the sponsors and the children).

OK, that's my issue for the day! Now it's time to shop the markets -- it's Saturday, after all! I missed the animal market this morning... just too tired to "rise and shine" to be there at 6:30. Oh, I was up by 6:00 (this town does NOT sleep in -- ever!!), but had such a headache. I've been going through a LOT of aspirin, coping with the thin air and acclimating to it. I haven't really had any problems other than shortness of breath and almost constant nagging headaches, but plenty of fluids and regular aspirin intake seem to take care of it OK. No stomach bugs or such (thank goodness!)... have been careful about not drinking the water and all, and taking lots of acidophilus to keep a good bacteria count going on inside!

Oh! Almost forgot! While eating my pizza last night in the restaurant, an Andean band starting setting up in the interior courtyard. Since the restaurant overlooks it, I had a great view. I asked if it would be OK to take pictures and videotape, and it was -- so I did! Wow! What a show! I thoroughly enjoyed the evening -- what an unexpected treat! Those near and dear to me know how much I love that music, anyway! Which reminds me, I need to pick up a few more good CD's while I'm here.

Well, time to run for now. I'm not sure if there's internet access at Hostal LaLuna, which is a couple miles South of the town of Otavalo, up in the mountains near Mojanda, but I'll be back down in Otavalo off and on to wander and such. So I'll try to keep these blog entries coming.

Wondering what Dany's family has in store for me today, I close here with MUCHO love for all!

Adios!

Photos from Cascada de Peguche daytrip

These pictures are ones I took at the Peguche Falls, which was on my list of places to visit. I had mentioned this previously in a letter to Dany, and his family apparently made a point of remembering -- and personally seeing to it that I got there! They borrowed a pickup truck from a friend, packed a picnic lunch, and picked me up for a daytrip to the Cascada de Peguche! What a special day that was! The Peguche Falls are considered sacred to the Quichua (indigenous people of the area), with claims of healing properties and such.

Dany's whole family escorted me... Dany is in the striped shirt, his two brothers are in the white shirts (one is older than him, one is younger), and his little sister is in the white top and blue hat. They are all really sweet kids -- quiet and polite, yet eager to show off to me (typical kids!), make me laugh, and win a little extra special attention from me. Dany's parents were very attentive and full of smiles and hospitality.

I was encouraged to walk along as the "guest of honor" (in front), but I couldn't help falling behind now and then to walk with Dany's mother, who brought up the rear, carrying the picnic lunch. As is the custom with the indigenous people there, the women are the pack mules (for lack of a better term), and the men walk in front. As Dany's mother seemed a little uncomfortable about my wanting to walk with her (as if I didn't belong in the back), I would just click a few pictures and proceed back up to the front of the family group. It was a very casual outing, and we had lots of fun, but there are still cultural rules that one must be sensitive to. It's not like the husband treats the wife with disrespect -- quite the contrary. Dany's parents seem very close and laugh together alot. They're just raised with different traditions and are obviously content with them.

Photos at the Hostal Dona Esther

These few photos show a bit of where I spent my time while based in Otavalo. The arrow in the photo to the right shows, from the interior, where my room was. I took the picture from the walkway on other side (there are rooms on 3 sides overlooking the couryard).

I picked this hotel (from info obtained in advance online) because of the open courtyard in the center, and the cool architecture! I could have chosen any number of places for an even more reasonable cost (like $12/night, instead of $18!!!), but I really felt drawn to this place. It had its own restaurant, too, so I figured I could always "eat in" when I wanted to, instead of always having to leave to find a meal. I was really glad I picked this place -- nice and quiet, nice view of the street from my 3rd-floor balcony (did some great people-watching!), and nice view of the interior courtyard from my door. They also had live music 2 nights, and great food (including hearth-baked pizza).

The photo to the left shows my room, with the balcony overlooking the street below.

A full day exploring Otavalo

I had a wonderful breakfast downstairs this morning -- enough for 2 meals, so I took some with me for lunch later.

Dany's family (both parents, Dany, his 2 brothers and little sister) picked me up around 1:30 from the Dona Esther, in a truck that his father had borrowed (from a friend?). They knew that I wanted to see certain places, because I'd written to Dany previously about the different places I was learning about on the internet, and that I wanted to see. Apparently, his family wanted to help make my wishes come true! First, they asked if I'd like to go to Cascada de Peguche (Peguche Falls), and I said with glee, "Si!" So we did, and it was totally awesome! It's a beautiful walk to the falls, and the falls themselves are breathtaking. We took some pictures and walked around, and I decided that I'll have to try to go again by myself before I go, to take more pictures and explore more! When we came back down, Dany's mother set out a picnic lunch for us all -- corn on the cob, potatoes, and a salty, tofu-like cheese -- all wonderful!

After we were done, Dany's father asked me if I wanted to see San Pablo Lake. Again, a jubilant "Si! Gracias!!!" They were all delighted at my enthusiasm. By the time we got to the lake, though, it had started to rain, so we couldn't stay and I couldn't get but a few quick photos taken before I had to worry about my camera getting wet -- and Dany's mother riding in the back of the pick-up with the kids!!! I tried to get her to switch places with me and ride in the front, but she wouldn't hear of it! Luckily, rain showers are usually quite brief this time of year, as was this one.

When they brought me back to the hotel, they again had the receptionist try to interpret for them, that they wanted to pick me up again tomorrow before I checked out and moved to the Hostal LaLuna. I said OK, and they said they'd be there at 11:30 a.m.

I feel I should call Byron to let him know what's going on. If anyone from Compassion is checking out my blog, please know that this is not something I planned or expected or ever even encouraged. And Dany's whole family is involved in these outings that they invited me on, so I'm never alone with Dany at any time. I have not invited any of the family members to see or visit in my hotel room, and would refuse if they asked. Likewise, I will not provide them with any contact information, as I know that would be totally against the rules. I fully intend to honor the promises I've already made regarding this matter.

On a lighter note, after Dany's family dropped me off, I freshened up and wandered the streets, browsed the shops and visited the market. Today, I was in a better shopping mood! So begins my shopping spree!

It's 6:16 here now at the internet cafe, but dark outside. I should be tying this up and getting back to my hotel soon. I am discovering that things are a bit different than I'd imagined or expected... not in a bad way or good way, just different. The cities are bigger, busier, etc., and the air quality in town is BAD, with apparently no regulations being enforced on automobile exhausts. There also aren't as many English-speaking people as I'd expected there to be, but it just it forces me to practice more diligently what little Spanish I'd tried to learn before I left the USA!